The Other North Idaho Ice Climber: 2013

Monday, November 4, 2013

Hiatus

Obviously it's been awhile since I last posted anything I've been busy with family, play and work. Ice season is not to far off now so more to come in the not so distant future. For now bouldering and rock climbing between rain/wet snow along with some pliceboard and drytooling for good measure.

Tuesday, April 16, 2013

2012/13 Ice Season Is A Wrap

Well ice season is officially over for me I collected 27 days! I had a great ice season learned some new things and have a better insight. Now time for alpine, rock and bouldering.

Super Bock

Saturday, February 23, 2013

A Trip with Trent!

It is hard not to get excited when ever I get to get outdoors with my kids. I took Trent over to Bozeman Mt Feb 15-18th for a little ice climbing and snowboarding. It's only Trent's second outing on ice and he did great! As for the snowboarding heck he's been doing it for years now its getting harder for Dad to keep up! We climbed Saturday and Sunday in Hyalite Canyon started out at the Corner Climbs met up with Joe and Bob moved on to Mummy 2 and Scepter. Next day we pulled late shift and climbed at G1. Monday we finished off our trip snowboarding at Big Sky which was awesome! Killer mountain for sure! It is always a gift for me to get to share my love for the outdoors with my kids!

Corner Climbs we climbed Thin Chance the one on the right

Trent sizing up the ice

At the top of Thin Chance

Trent climbs the Scepter!

Dads gotta get some too! G1 right pillar

Trents first time belaying me on ice leads he did great!

Waiting for the tram at Big Sky that boy can ride a snowboard and I couldn't be more proud!

Enough said!

Wednesday, February 20, 2013

Get Your Zen On!

Call it Zen, the calm or just plain patients as a climber I must always be vigilant to work on it. A life's work in progress it is the most influential aspect in my climbing. It has taken a very long time for me to really see the impact ones mental game plays while climbing. Once I lose any sense of calm while climbing the doubt and fear come rushing in. They will always be there but if I can keep them at bay my climbing will keep improving. I can train until I'm blue in the face, but if my mental game is weak all is lost. The past few years I have started to really find my "Zen" while climbing and it has been a revelation for me. If I climb more patient things like putting in a hard to place screw or gear are so much easier now. It's like ah crap hit air take the screw back out take a deep breath, switch hands depump and place it some where else relax. If I'm able to stay calm I'm able to make things count and that's so important. Good foot placement, sticks and gear is what it's all about better to style up an easy route that shake your way up a hard one! Once I start to let panic set in for what ever reason things start to feel dire and the real pump sets in. One of the beauties of climbing for me is if my mind is right it is just about that task at that very moment that counts no distractions from life. That for me is probably one of the main reasons I climb to have some time to unwind in a very busy world. A Buddhist Monk I'll never be but I can always aspire for a better state of mind!

Practicing my "Zen" on a rotten Sundance Kid Moses Coulee,WA 1-31-13

Dale Carnegie You can conquer almost any fear if you will only make up your mind to do so. For remember, fear doesn't exist anywhere except in the mind.

Friday, January 25, 2013

An ounce of technique is better than a pound of strength but a gram of mental can be a powerful thing!

I'm having my best ice season ever not because I've went to lots of places hell I've been mostly local. The architecture has been laid out by events my main climbing partner has only been able to do short trips so local we stayed mostly. I'm also not training as hard at the gym yet there has been a noticeable difference that started late last season. My mental game changed spurred on by a new perception I guess you could say. Also having great climbing partner has been a major impact. I use to think that strength was my main weakness when it came to climbing and yet now I realize that technique which is gained by time on the ice is so much more powerful! The more familiar the better things become duh I must be a slow learner. Hold on though then there is mental of which plays a huge role in climbing for me HUGE! I have done some of the hardest leads of my climbing career these past few months not because I was stronger or technically a better climber. No because my mental outlook has changed I see things a little different now. I had to force my self to swim in deeper water but I kept it in check with reality to my abilities and it has been amazing. Ice climbing is still hard, cold and scary but I wouldn't want it any other way. Hell I'm climbing my best on ice at 43 and I feel like the best is still yet to come! It's not the swing that counts it's the stepping up to the plate that matters.

Climbing with my boys in Hyalite Canyon life is good!

If you spend too much time thinking about a thing, you'll never get it done.
Bruce Lee

Monday, January 21, 2013

Shitting Razorblades

Went to Banks Lake for a weekend trip with Joe as it turned out I also got to meet and climb with Bob Loomis who drove out each day to climb. The first day we climbed Shitting Razorblades a route that saw its first ascent winter 06/07 and hasn't formed again until this season. Trip report from first ascent <LINK> Joe was fortunate enough to have climbed it in 07. So when I told him I read online that it was in he said we should do it! Saturday morning we ran into Bob by the Cable and pressed on to Shitting Razorblades being a trio climbing it in three pitches made sense. We also climbed a line off of the second tier to the left. Here's a condition post I put on line <LINK> The next day we climbed at Pee Wee's and got back home in time for dinner. One of those trips that will stay with me!

Shitting Razorblades

Pitch 1

Pitch 2

I'm getting started on Pitch 2

Bob on pitch 2

Bob pitch 3

Line to the left may be FA for Joe?

Joe gettin it done on left line!

Joe at Pee Wee's

Shitting Razorblades all I can say is wow what a route! Good ice and great partners what more can you want!

Local!

Joe Lind 1-15-13
FA one of many we hope!

Local yes N Idaho has ice when the conditions are right this area looks like it's season has arrived! Time to pick the fruit. I got a line a few years back in this area knowing that it would provide again some day. Years of hunting and patients have paid off. More first ascents to come!