Hyalite Once Again!

Ran over to Hyalite with Joe for three days !5th -17th good trip!


The Dribbles with climbers on lower pitch



Chilco Is In Da House!

Climb Chilco with Joe on Saturday not to shabby for early season N Idaho ice. Gotta love ice that is only minutes from my house!  Temps keep consistent and she'll be fattened up for Christmas. Off to Hyalite towards the end of the week for a few days! I can't wait!

The little mixed line is coming along nice! 

Look, Listen and Learn!

Great Ice Video

Really like this video of Pete Tapley climbing the Scepter




BD athlete Pete Tapley ice climbing in Hyalite Canyon, Montana from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

Ice Season Begins!

Got over to Hyalite for two days of ice with Joe 11-21&22! Hallelujah it was great to swing the good old ice tools again. Off to a good start now just have to keep up the momentum! For now more plice until real ice! The future trip plan wheels are a turnin!

Joe on Hang Over



The always awesome Scepter!



Joe on Mummy II



Got Plice?

I do!

After seeing this video of Will Gadd a year ago I knew that I needed to build my own plice board.

So last Sunday off to Home Depot and a few hours later I got plice. Always looking to improve my ice climbing this should definitely help.

Throw in some squat stands complements of Will Gadd also.

Sprinkle in calf raises and hammer swings for good measure.

Ice Season is right around the corner now and I am psyched if you can't tell!

Lion's Head - Lion Tamer August 21 2011

North Face of Lion's Head Lion Tamer route follows cleft right of center
Photo courtesy of Summit Post

Joe convinced me to climb Lion's Head - Lion Tamer route description here http://www.summitpost.org/the-lions-head/153052 I should say I survived while he thrived. Tough route in a spectacular setting I was definitely along more for the ride on this one I am going to work on my alpine rock skills though. So glad I went! Joe's trip report here http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1031802/TR_The_Lion_s_Head_Lion_Tamer_#Post1031802


Bush whack and chimney climbing in shorts enough said

No camera unfortunately, only one headlamp and a GPS on the dark walk out. With Joe getting of work at 7am our day went from 8am to getting home at 1am. Joe kicked ass as usual he's a beast!

Five Boys Three Dads & Mt Adams

July 29th a group of us gave Adams a go, the boys ranging in age from 10 to 15. Attempting to climb from  Cold Springs Campground at 5,600' to the summit via the South Spur Route. The boys all did awesome making it to their summit for this trip Pikers Peak 11,657' , followed by a killer glissade. A long day for the boys but they all did a great job! We will try again next year staying the night at the lunch counter helping ensure a summit success. Time spent with family and friends is definitely what it is all about. I am real proud of all these boys!

Trent & Cam ready to get after it!



Time with your boys in the outdoors priceless!

Trent takes the express lane down!



Just A Little Bouldering

Sunday Morning Bouldering from Jason Baker on Vimeo.

Win lose or draw it's that you play the game that counts!

Over the past weekend I attempted Curtis Ridge on Mount Rainier with Cappy aka Rich. We had a great time as usual we got to about 10300' we think our only altimeter died at the parking lot. Sometimes you go and the summit is not in the cards. Later on we found out that a team we watched on Liberty Ridge had an unfortunate incident. The top out is not what I remember about a climb it is the journey that counts. Success is measured in growth not necessarily achievement. I am out playing the game less than some and more than others but I'm playing and that's what counts. Like the Terminator says I will be back! Curtis Ridge looks to fun not to try again.

Get out get cold and get scared!



Amazed to find this little guy at about 10,000'





This is why I have got to go back!


  

Spring alpine time again! Get out in the cold mountains and have some fun! God dammit!

Chair Peak NF WA Feb 2010
Trip report here>Link<




Snowshoe Peak MT Feb 2010
Trip report here>Link<

All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy!
Time for me to get out in the cold mountains again put a smile on my face and giver!

 

Training for climbing? Or should I say time in the gym to improve climbing?

One thing for sure mention training on http://cascadeclimbers.com/ and your sure to see lots of opinions and some arguing. When it comes to training in a gym I am all questions and no answers. I have learned a few things about how gym time has changed my climbing. Never a gym rat before I started going in the mornings two years ago. Lost I was especially when it came to weight lifting. This fall I stumbled upon this article
http://www.mensjournal.com/everything-you-know-about-fitness-is-a-lie/ on http://mountainathlete.com/ it opened my eyes and pushed my gym time in the direction that I have taken it since. Now keep in mind I realize all the weight lifting, pull ups, running and the likes are not what make me a better climber. Only more time climbing does that. But when it comes to long days in the mountains the gym time has help make them easier, if any thing the gym has given me more durability. So by day four of an ice climbing trip I am more fresh than I used to be. I climb better and more so I slowly become a better climber or at least that's the plan. So in my case getting up at the crack of dawn and dragging my self to the gym is paying off. I am going to start an online training log http://bakertraining.blogspot.com/  for me to see where I have been and where I'm going. Others will judge and comment if they want. I am always looking for sound advice. One thing for certain I have to keep an eye on the little obsessive-compulsive demon in my head! Reminding my self that the gym is a mean to an end not the end!

Fact:
My lower back has given me trouble most of my life. Injured it in a little dirt bike crash as a teen. Lifting heavy (heavy for me) squats and especially deadlifts seem to be the cure. Who would of thunk!

2010/11 Ice Season Wrap Up

Ice Season 10/11 Is A Wrap
Just climbed 3-19to21 in Canada the last ice trip of the season. Trip report with pictures here:->Link<- I am ready for spring to bring on bouldering and alpine pursuits. I collected 22 days total on ice this season 4 Hyalite, 7 Canadian Rockies, 1 Banks Lake and 10 local ice mostly Chilco. All in all a great one. Another earlier trip report with pictures here:->Link<-

Joe Lind on H2O2 Banks LK

Speak softly and carry a sharp pick.

BD Spinner Leash Wire Gate Troubles

I've been using an umbilical setup for 3 seasons first homemade now BD spinner. I use them for almost all ice and alpine just not top roping, cragging and the little bit of mixed I do. I am on the cobras right now and really like em this season on three occasion have had the gate come open on my spinners. I have never fallen on or even fully weighted the umbilical and neither one looked different. All three time just swinging with slack. I decided enough talked to BD they had no good explanation. So I decided to cut off the original clips and put on small biner like my homemade rigs. I never had this problem with them.  I had Camp Nanos on them but found Metolius FS Minis where a little smaller. I know some folks and manufacturer's have girth hitch or use cords to connect to tools. I like having the option to easily clip form spike to head if needed or unclip and clip my tools on my harness or put on pack.

The clippers don't have a lip like a biner does also a spare if needed.

Mini FS on spinner clip ahh

Size reference mini fs-nano-neutrino

A swing and a stick!

Welcome Wagon

I am an average guy who is keen on climbing especially ice and bouldering with a smattering of rock and alpine thrown in for good measures. I am always learning when it comes to climbing. I'm hoping to post local ice conditions, maybe a trip report or two and possibly some gear thoughts.