Tuesday, May 19, 2015

Boulders & Barbells Will Tell You No Lies

Last Fridays Workout AM Boulder Sesh PM Gym Sesh

Not being that strong of a person I've always had to climb regularly to maintain what is for me a basic level of climbing fitness. My climbing years ago was mostly made up of bouldering and ice climbing. As life progressed I let life and a few injuries derail a good chunk of my climbing for a few years. As I turned 40 I decided that I should start to at least start to go to the gym even do some weight lifting something I had never done before. In the past I would just climb and that was it no other forms of training. One thing though I was a lot stronger rock climber then why well I needed to get back to my roots bouldering I was my strongest on rock while bouldering. Ice on the other hand I've actually had some of my best season's now that I'm in my mid 40 in major part to implementing strength training. I have gotten more into sport and gear climbing over the past couple of years. I then decided I needed to start bouldering again trying to get some of my old problems again scrubbing new ones and it has been fun I am excited. Bouldering in the past made me the strongest that I was on rock so it's high time to get back to my roots. I'm gonna keep rope slinging to as I'm excited about that. But bouldering and barbells pull no punches and always let me know how it is. See you at the boulders!

Friday, March 27, 2015

Han Solo? What's Your Solo Set Up?

Most Reliable Partners Ever!
Been reading a bit on forums about people's solo top rope setups lately. I do quite a bit of solo climbing it's convenient I do it more now than bouldering. I'm only using my solo set up for top rope climbing I still prefer to lead stuff with a partner. Having the ability to just get out and do laps any time works out great for me. I have to squeeze in my climbing when I can with family and work. I've even used this set up on ice on a few occasions I wouldn't suggest using it on a wet climb as I think a person would run into possible jamming due to freeze up. I've been running this set up for a couple of years now and am very happy with it. After doing a bit of Research this seemed to be the best for my needs. I'm running two Petzl Micro Traxion on Blackdiamond Megatron Gridlock carabiners  along with a weight on the end of the rope makes for a smooth system. I rarely ever have to pull slack which seems to be common with some setups. I am be no means an expert so do your own research but this system has been treating me right.

Taking the dogs out for a walk

Tuesday, March 24, 2015

Libby Road Cut Ice

Climber Joe Lind
Road Cut  30M WI3/4 with mixed options also
US Rte 2 between Troy & Libby just east of Bull Lake Rd (route info also found in Big Sky Ice Guide)
Forms almost every year
Climber Jason Baker

Yaak River Road Ice

Joe Lind 12-4-14


Yaak Pillar 20M WI4 with mixed options also
Hwy 95 N to US Rte 2 turn on to Yaak River Rd
Ice is on side of road just past Yaak Falls
Fun little bumper belay area.
Forms almost every season

Pyramid Lake Ice

Pyramid Lake Ice
Early season option before snow closes road can be in as early as mid October
Hike to lake ice is visible on far end of lake
Fun day in the hills
Pictures from November 22 2014

Monday, March 23, 2015

2014/2015 Ice Seasons A Wrap

For me at least ice season is over time to move on to rock climbing and bouldering. Not that I don't want more ice I do but this past season wasn't a long one, and a non existent one locally. My favorite local spot never even came in this year ugh! Oh well even with all of the weather setbacks, shoulder rehab and work swamping most of my season. I did manage twenty one days ending in February. After checking conditions even Canada doesn't seem worth the drive for ice in March. I did manage to climb a couple of things that stood out for me one I've wanted to climb for a long time and something I thought looked awesome but never thought I'd get to climb it. Cascade Kronenberg in Field is a climb I remember seeing in a magazine during my first year of ice climbing.  Back then it looked to me as only a dream to be able to climb something like that. I kept climbing over the years and slowly moved up the grades getting out on a bit more harder grades. Cascade Kronenberg is a rare line only in once and awhile this year was one of those. After seeing pictures and reports of it being climbed via the Shooter Bar mixed option two reports rated M6 WI6 in current conditions. In January we headed up to have a look climbed Carlsberg first looking a Kronenberg which looked challenging to say the least. Talked it over and decided to giver! Joe lead the first pitch which was awesome the M6 section was fun! Once I heard a woo hoo and saw him on the ledge I knew it would be my turn next. I got to lead the second pitch steep kinda funky ice my favorite. Great climb super cool to get to climb it after seeing a picture of it all those years ago!
Cascade Kronenberg
Then in February I got to climb Whiteman Falls a climb that I remember seeing in the guide book early in my years as an ice climber also. Then last season I saw a Go Pro video of some one climbing it I was intrigued to say the least. Wanting to give it a shot Joe got us started out that day on the first pitch. I got the second pitch which is what I wanted super fun some tech a little funk. We felt like it lived up to its WI6 rating that day. So I had a short yet successful season!
Whiteman Falls
Hell besides there's always next season!

Wednesday, February 25, 2015

To Much Is Never Enough!

Hydrophobia! Humbling & Amazing!
Work and life have busy and the lack of local ice this year is a sad state of affairs. What local ice we had was gone by the first week of January. I got up to Canada for a quick two day mid January which was great. So a month later I was wanting more after talking to Joe where should we go everywhere out west has been warmer than normal Canada seemed most logical but avy danger was off the charts. So low avy is what we sought-after last minute decisions typical the conversation went like this. The Ghost says Joe Hydrophobia he says so after a hasty pack a late night drive a bivy on concrete in a picnic shelter,and an interesting drive into the Ghost. We find our selves at the base of Hydrophobia an impressive piece of ice to say the least. Hard, very little features, and dinner plates from bottom to top and steep did I mention steep. With pumped calves and forearms pulled up over the top of the route. Joe is strong and a routes like this suit him well. I on the other hand am not that strong and prefer techy ice (more features for feet even if ice isn't as good) so Hydrophobia was hard for me. What I learned is technique for a route like this coupled with better calf and forearm endurance well too much of all of these is never enough for me at least! Keep training and trying! Always a work in progress!
Rapping off Hydrophobia you can see Joe's green jacket at midway and our packs down at bottom. 
The next day was my choice and I wanted to go and climb Whiteman Falls in K Country a climb I've wanted to do for a while. Amazing climb I got to do the second pitch which is the one I wanted. Now this climb suited me better more tech less power great climb!
Whiteman Falls

Psyched to climb Whiteman Falls that alone made the trip for me. A Haffner mixed session for our last day before the drive home capped off a great three day trip. Now it's gym and pliceboard some rock to until next ice trip.