The Other North Idaho Ice Climber: January 2013

Friday, January 25, 2013

An ounce of technique is better than a pound of strength but a gram of mental can be a powerful thing!

I'm having my best ice season ever not because I've went to lots of places hell I've been mostly local. The architecture has been laid out by events my main climbing partner has only been able to do short trips so local we stayed mostly. I'm also not training as hard at the gym yet there has been a noticeable difference that started late last season. My mental game changed spurred on by a new perception I guess you could say. Also having great climbing partner has been a major impact. I use to think that strength was my main weakness when it came to climbing and yet now I realize that technique which is gained by time on the ice is so much more powerful! The more familiar the better things become duh I must be a slow learner. Hold on though then there is mental of which plays a huge role in climbing for me HUGE! I have done some of the hardest leads of my climbing career these past few months not because I was stronger or technically a better climber. No because my mental outlook has changed I see things a little different now. I had to force my self to swim in deeper water but I kept it in check with reality to my abilities and it has been amazing. Ice climbing is still hard, cold and scary but I wouldn't want it any other way. Hell I'm climbing my best on ice at 43 and I feel like the best is still yet to come! It's not the swing that counts it's the stepping up to the plate that matters.

Climbing with my boys in Hyalite Canyon life is good!

If you spend too much time thinking about a thing, you'll never get it done.
Bruce Lee

Monday, January 21, 2013

Shitting Razorblades

Went to Banks Lake for a weekend trip with Joe as it turned out I also got to meet and climb with Bob Loomis who drove out each day to climb. The first day we climbed Shitting Razorblades a route that saw its first ascent winter 06/07 and hasn't formed again until this season. Trip report from first ascent <LINK> Joe was fortunate enough to have climbed it in 07. So when I told him I read online that it was in he said we should do it! Saturday morning we ran into Bob by the Cable and pressed on to Shitting Razorblades being a trio climbing it in three pitches made sense. We also climbed a line off of the second tier to the left. Here's a condition post I put on line <LINK> The next day we climbed at Pee Wee's and got back home in time for dinner. One of those trips that will stay with me!

Shitting Razorblades

Pitch 1

Pitch 2

I'm getting started on Pitch 2

Bob on pitch 2

Bob pitch 3

Line to the left may be FA for Joe?

Joe gettin it done on left line!

Joe at Pee Wee's

Shitting Razorblades all I can say is wow what a route! Good ice and great partners what more can you want!

Local!

Joe Lind 1-15-13
FA one of many we hope!

Local yes N Idaho has ice when the conditions are right this area looks like it's season has arrived! Time to pick the fruit. I got a line a few years back in this area knowing that it would provide again some day. Years of hunting and patients have paid off. More first ascents to come!